How did traditional French Onion soup, crêpes and the croque-monsieur land in New York? They arrived with the first Bretons, who arrived in the late 19th century. There’s been a love affair between the Bretons and the city ever since.
Legend asserts that the first immigrant from rural Brittany came back to his native village covered in gold, ensuring a steady flow of immigration to the roaring industries of New Jersey and New York City. Later, during the Second Word War, intense bombings turned the once fertile soil of Brittany into fields of devastation and unemployment.
A second wave of Bretons arrived, finding shelter and jobs with the help of previous generations of their countrymen.
The Bretons brought with them a very distinct flavor of their native land. In the 1950s, typical black Breton hats with leather ribbons dotted the Upper West Side, and on the streets you could hear the ancient Celtic dialect still spoken in Brittany today. Au Tout Va Bien (311 W. 51st St., 265-0190, AuToutVaBien.com) remains a cultural landmark, a place where immigrants worked as boss boys, coat checkers or cooks at the dawn of their American life. A more recent popular eatery is Café Triskell in Long Island City (33-04 36th Ave, 718-472-061 CafeTriskell.com). Their menu is the very definition of comfort food.
In France, Bretons have a reputation for innate coolness and open-mindedness, probably because they grow up with the fresh breeze of the ocean and the promise of the horizon. In New York, this laid-back, festive group gets high marks for its visibility. The vibrant organization BZH New York (www.bzh-ny.org) keeps the Breton community connected, and connected to its centuries-old traditions. They promote the colorful “fest-noz”, a traditional Breton Bal with engaging Celtic rhythms, flag pipe tunes and striking a cappella singing. BZH is also involved in preparing the Saint Patrick’s Day Parade in March, and Breton Week in May. With their characteristic enthusiasm, good food, and personality, it’s no surprise New York City loves its Bretons!
Article by Alexis Buisson
